Yesterday, I visited the districts of Retiro to the north and San Telmo to the South. One of the reasons I went to Retiro was to buy my bus ticket to Puerto Madryn, an eighteen hour slog south on the shores of the Atlantic. I´ll probably stay there for a couple of days before continuing on to Rio Grande in Tierra del Fuego (so called because of the watchfires lit by native indians according to Darwin), which is great for its fishing.

One of the interesting things about Buenos Aires are the gradations of wealth that can be seen throughout the city. The city was originally founded to the south of its current centre, in San Telmo. But alas, the huge mansions adorned with cupolas were allowed to languish after the nineteenth century when a yellow fever epidemic forced people to flee north into what was then the open country of Retiro and Recoleta. In fact, only two centuries ago, the area immediatly surrounding the grimy internet cafe where I am now writing was open countryside teeming with fig trees. The lack of inhabitants led the Franciscan monks to open a monastery here to ponder and recollect (hence the name Recolet).

I would advise anyone coming to Buenos Aires to stay in San Telmo, whose little cobbled streets are line by grand old houses that are slowly falling into ruin. Its one of the last places where traditional markets still exist, and I found it particularly enchanting in the evening when the golden light hid the marks on the walls and the broken glass in the windows. This is where the city waas originally founded (see photos later). Its an area of dark antique shops, faded arcades and great little cafes.

I´ve also been surprised since I´ve been here at how politically aware the people are. References to Eva Peron can be found on walls around the city, and on my first day in Buenos Aires, I passed two men with megaphones who vowed that the spilt in the Malvinas could never be atoned for. A "lema" just outside my hostel " Gane quien gane, las elecciones no ayudan al pueblo. No votes!". (Whoever wins, the elections don´t help the people. Don´t vote)

In the more salubrious area of Retiro, an eternal flame burns next to a monument honouring the Argentine of the Malvinas war. Strangely though, its overshadowed by the "Torre ingles", which was donated to the city by the British government in the 19th century. There was talk of knocking it down in the 80s but its still standing, as is the statue to George Canning in Recoleta (a British foreign secretary who helped Argentina win its independence) which looks worse for wear after having been chucked into Rio de la Plata.

Just like in British cities, people are moving further and further away from the traditional central, into quiet, leafy districts like Palermo. As in any big city, though, you have stay on your guard. After buying my bus ticket to Puerto Maryn, two guys tried to steal my I-pod from my backpack.

Staying in the hostel was a good move because I´ve met some guys from England, some Ozies from Tazmania and your customary bellicose Israelis. Better go-got the cemetery of Recoleta to explore.